The origin of this distinctive hood is a topic of debate. Some historians suggest that Flemish settlers introduced it. During the 15th and 16th centuries, the Azores saw an influx of settlers not only from Flanders but also from Genoa, Britain, and France, alongside those from mainland Portugal. This blend of cultures contributed to the unique traditions and customs of the Azores islands. The Azorean Hood features a long, dark cloak combined with a large, hooded cape, creating a dramatic silhouette. Its primary purpose was to protect wearers from the harsh and unpredictable weather of the islands. Constructed from thick, durable materials, the cloak effectively shielded against rain and wind. The design of the Azorean Hood varied across the islands. On Faial (the main island of Azores), for instance, the cape had an extravagant wedge shape that rested on the shoulders and extended more than a palm’s length in front. Despite these variations, a common characteristic of the ‘capote e capelo’ was its strong, heavy electric-blue cloth. This durable fabric was known to last for generations and was often passed down from mothers to daughters. Over time, the garment became deeply embedded in Azorean culture, symbolizing modesty, social status, and the region’s multicultural heritage. In Mark Twain’s book Innocents Abroad (1869), he makes a ‘fashion review’ of the Azorean Hood: “Here and there in the doorways we saw women with fashionable Portuguese hoods on. This hood is of thick blue cloth, attached to a cloak of the same stuff, and is a marvel of ugliness. It stands up high, and spreads abroad, and is unfathomably deep. It fits like a circus tent, and a woman’s head is hidden away in it like the man’s who prompts the singers from his tin shed in the stage of an opera… …a woman can’t go within eight points of the wind with one of them on; she has to go before the wind or not at all.” The origin of the Azorean Hood is debated, with some historians suggesting it has Flemish roots. This theory is supported by ancient images of Flemish women wearing similar attire. Flemish settlers began arriving in the Azores around 1450, and by 1490, there were approximately 2,000 Flemings living on the islands of Terceira, Pico, Faial, São Jorge, and Flores. Due to this significant Flemish presence, the Azores were often referred to as the Flemish Islands or the Isles of Flanders. Settlement in the Azores continued throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, with people from Genoa, Britain, and France joining the Portuguese mainlanders. These settlers brought various cultural contributions, one of the most notable being the introduction of woad. Woad, a yellow-flowered plant from the cabbage family, was a vital source of blue dye. This dye, extracted from the dried, powdered, and fermented leaves of the plant, became a major export and economic pillar for the Azores. Whaling also played an important role in the Azorean economy. The earliest documented capture of whales in Azorean waters dates back to the 16th century, with English whalers recorded in the region by the 18th century. The Azorean Hoods, passed down through generations from mothers to daughters, reflected these economic activities. The hoods were dyed a deep blue using woad and often shaped with whale bones, intertwining the garment’s cultural significance with the islands’ economic history.
(Photo credit: European Heritage Days / Flickr / Wikimedia Commons / Upscaled by RHP). Notify me of new posts by email.
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